Perang Pandan (Mekare-kare) in Tenganan Pegringsingan: A Sacred Bali Aga Ritual

Perang Pandan, or mekare-kare, is not a tourist attraction. It is an offering made by the Bali Aga community of Tenganan Pegringsingan village, Manggis district, Karangasem, to Dewa Indra — the god of war, who in Tenganan belief stands above all others. Young men duel with bundles of thorny pandan leaves and rattan shields not to win, but to offer their courage as an act of devotion.

Part of the Usaba Sambah Cycle

• Mekare-kare is one link in Usaba Sambah, a month-long ceremony held during sasih kalima (the fifth month) of Tenganan’s own traditional calendar.
• On the Gregorian calendar the ritual usually falls around June; the exact date is set by the village’s traditional calendar — confirm with the village or a local guide before you travel.
• The pandan duels are generally held on two consecutive days: the first at Petemu Kaja, the second in front of the Bale Agung.

Step by Step

• Procession around the village. Towards midday, villagers parade in traditional dress and gringsing, Tenganan’s famous double-ikat cloth.
• The swing ritual (manyunan). Young women (daha) in their finest cloth are lifted onto a large wooden swing turned by the young men (teruna), a symbol of life’s cycles.
• Gamelan selonding. This sacred iron ensemble accompanies the whole ritual and marks when each duel begins and ends.
• One-on-one duels. Bare-chested and wrapped in kamben cloth, two young men embrace and rake each other’s backs with the thorny pandan bundle, blocking with a rattan shield. A separator parts them after a few seconds.
• Treatment and a shared meal. The scratches are treated at once with a paste of grated turmeric and galangal mixed with coconut oil, then everyone sits down to megibung. No grudges are carried home.

Visitor Etiquette

• Dress: wear a kain or sarong with a selendang sash at the waist; avoid shorts, tank tops and revealing clothing.
• Photography: never step into the arena or block the procession route, switch off your flash, and ask permission before close-up portraits.
• Do not climb onto pavilions or temple walls, or stand higher than the priests, just for a camera angle.
• Keep your voice down and follow the pecalang (village wardens) — this is an offering, not a sporting match.

Practical Info & Booking

• Location: Tenganan Pegringsingan village, Manggis, Karangasem — View on Google Maps
• Timing: the Usaba Sambah cycle usually runs around June; the pandan duels take two days, typically from around midday into the afternoon.
• Cost: there is no ticket. Visitors leave a voluntary donation at the village entrance (usually tens of thousands of rupiah) plus a small parking fee.
• Access: about 10 km or 15–20 minutes from Candidasa, roughly 45 minutes from Amlapura. The village lane narrows on ceremony days, so park in the designated area and walk in.
• How to attend: no ticket or reservation, but confirm the date with the village or a local guide and arrive early in the day for a good standing spot.
• Social media: search on Instagram

Because the ritual runs into the afternoon and the roads to Tenganan fill up on ceremony days, an overnight stay in Candidasa or elsewhere in Karangasem makes the visit far calmer — browse AccessiaPass hotel vouchers for Karangasem so you never have to rush back to south Bali.