The day after Nyepi, as Bali slowly comes back to life, the people of Desa Adat Semate in Abianbase, Mengwi district, Badung, gather for a tug-of-war. It is called Mbed-Mbedan: a rope-pulling contest in which the rope is joined by bun kalot, a climbing vine that grows in the village cemetery (setra). The latest edition took place on Friday, 20 March 2026, on Ngembak Geni of Saka New Year 1948.
Origins: A Tug-of-War Over the Village Name
According to the village’s Raja Purana chronicle and local temple priests, the tradition commemorates the founding of Desa Adat Semate and Pura Kahyangan Putih, believed to date back to 1396 Saka (1474 CE). The story begins with the flight of I Gusti Pasek Gelgel’s extended family during a conflict in the era of King Waturenggong, until they settled in a forest of kayu putih (cajuput) trees.
- What the pulling means: it symbolises the back-and-forth of opinions when elders debated what to name the village, following the bhisama (decree) of the sage Mpu Bantas.
- The name “Putih Semate”: “putih” comes from the cajuput trees, “semate” from the settlers’ vow to live and die together on that land.
- Not about winning: Jero Mangku Made Sukarta, priest of Pura Kahyangan Putih Semate, stresses that the goal is shared laughter and harmony, with no grudges.
How the Day Unfolds
- Around 09:00 WITA: communal prayers at Pura Desa lan Puseh; villagers offer tipat and bantal rice cakes as symbols of purusa-pradana (male and female unity).
- Rejang Giri Putri dance is performed, then the tug-of-war begins in the temple courtyard to the beat of baleganjur gamelan.
- Round after round: temple priests open with a symbolic pull, followed by groups of young men, women against men, and finally children. The team that drags its opponents across the boundary line wins the round.
- Finale: a shared meal and mutual forgiveness to close the Nyepi observance.
As bun kalot has become scarce, a regular rope is now used while the vine is kept as a symbol. The tradition lapsed for many years, was revived around 2009–2011, paused during the pandemic, and has been held regularly again since 2023.
Etiquette for Spectators
- Participants are village members; visitors may watch from the sidelines free of charge. Do not join the pulling unless the organisers invite you.
- Wear a sarong and sash, especially inside temple grounds; do not block the procession or fly a drone without permission.
- Arrive early and park where the pecalang (village guards) direct you.
Practical Info & Reservations
- Location: Desa Adat Semate, Abianbase, Mengwi — View on Google Maps. About 30–45 minutes from Canggu or Seminyak and 50–60 minutes from Ubud.
- Next edition: Nyepi 2027 is expected on Tuesday, 9 March 2027, so Mbed-Mbedan will likely fall on Wednesday, 10 March 2027. The official 2027 holiday decree has not been issued yet, so check the official calendar; the date is also projected to fall close to Eid al-Fitr, so expect busy roads.
- Cost & how to join: free, no booking needed. Just turn up and follow announcements from Desa Adat Semate ahead of Nyepi.
- Instagram: search on Instagram for photos and videos of the latest edition.
Mbed-Mbedan pairs well with other Ngembak Geni traditions such as Omed-Omedan in Sesetan and Siat Yeh in Jimbaran. To be ready on Ngembak Geni morning, secure a hotel voucher in Canggu or near Mengwi through AccessiaPass.
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