Desa Cempaga, Buleleng: A Bali Aga Village and Its Sacred Baris Jojor

About 20 km from Singaraja, on the southern slopes of Buleleng, sits an old village that rarely makes any tour itinerary: Desa Cempaga in Banjar District. Cempaga belongs to the cluster of Bali Aga villages usually abbreviated SCTP — Sidatapa, Cempaga, Tigawasa, Pedawa. At roughly 500 metres above sea level it is ringed by clove, coffee and durian gardens, with cool air and a distant view of the north Bali sea.

What Makes Cempaga Different

• A Bali Aga village: its customary law stands on its own and is generally described as egalitarian, without the caste divisions found in lowland villages.
• Two small hamlets: Dusun Desa and Dusun Corot, both walkable in roughly an hour.
• Pura Puseh Agung and Pura Desa are the centre of village ritual life, with ceremonies following the Balinese calendar.

Sacred Dances That Live Only Here

• Baris Jojor (Nyawi): a solo male dancer, performed in turns, with movements clearly different from the usual Baris dance.
• Baris Dadap: the group version, danced by adult men.
• Tari Jangkang: performed by children, usually at Kuningan day in Pura Desa.
• Rejang and Pendet: Rejang has many variants and is danced by women, often from night until close to dawn.
• Note: these are tari wali, sacred ritual dances, not tourist shows; the accompanying gamelan is never taken out of the village, so the only way to see them is to come during a ceremony.

Route, Best Hours and Etiquette

• Route: from the Lovina/Dencarik area take the climbing road towards Sidatapa–Cempaga, roughly 30–45 minutes; from Singaraja allow 45–60 minutes. The road is narrow, winding and still rough in places.
• Best hours: mornings from 08.00 to 11.00, before the mist rolls in.
• Cost: there is no official entrance ticket; bring around Rp20,000–50,000 for parking and a temple donation.
• Etiquette: wear a kamen and sash inside temple grounds, never stand higher than a priest or a dancer, and ask permission before photographing a ceremony.

Practical Info & Booking

• Location (Google Maps): View on Google Maps
• How to visit: simply turn up, no booking needed; for a local guide or ceremony dates, contact the village office or the Cempaga pokdarwis (tourism group) in advance.
• Transport: a rented motorbike from Lovina usually costs Rp70,000–100,000 per day, or a car with driver around Rp600,000–800,000 per day.
• Social media: search on Instagram
• Combine with: Air Panas Banjar hot springs and Brahmavihara-Arama, both in the same district.

Since Cempaga is best enjoyed in the morning, staying a night in Lovina or Singaraja makes far more sense than driving up from south Bali and back — compare hotel voucher prices on AccessiaPass first.