Can Tourists Watch a Cockfight (Tajen) in Bali?

Watching tabuh rah, a short cockfight without betting held as part of a temple ceremony, is generally not against the law. Tajen with money wagers is a different matter: it is unlicensed gambling, and anyone who places a bet can be prosecuted. For foreign tourists there is an extra layer of risk, namely immigration action up to deportation. The rules and news below were checked in October 2026.

What is the difference between tabuh rah and tajen?

Tabuh rah means "pouring of blood". The cockfight is part of a bhuta yadnya ceremony, and the spilled blood is offered to the bhuta kala spirits. A 1985 guideline from Parisada Hindu Dharma, Indonesia's Hindu council, states that tabuh rah must not involve money wagers in any form. Commonly cited features: only three sehet (rounds), accompanied by offerings, held within the temple or ceremony grounds.

Tajen is cockfighting in a kalangan (arena) with many rounds and heavy betting. Bali Governor Wayan Koster said on 30 June 2025 that tajen held at dedicated venues outside a ceremony counts as gambling and is banned, and he rejected a proposal from the provincial parliament to legalise it (ANTARA).

Which articles of the law apply since 2026?

Indonesia's new Criminal Code, Law No. 1 of 2023, took effect on 2 January 2026 and replaced Article 303 of the old code. Two gambling articles are relevant:

• Article 426: anyone who, without a licence, offers or gives the public the opportunity to gamble (organisers, bookmakers) faces up to 9 years in prison or a category VI fine of up to IDR 2 billion.
• Article 427: anyone who uses an unlicensed gambling opportunity, meaning they place bets, faces up to 3 years in prison or a category III fine of up to IDR 50 million.

The new code also has an animal cruelty article (Article 337), but the Bali tajen enforcement reports we reviewed used the gambling provisions.

What if I only watch and don't bet?

Article 427 targets people who gamble; pure spectators are not mentioned explicitly. During a raid, however, everyone at the arena can be dispersed, checked and asked for ID, and police have no quick way to tell a spectator from a bettor. For a foreigner, being checked at a gambling site means your passport and stay permit get checked too. Standing at the edge of the ring is not a strong defence.

Do police still raid tajen?

Yes, and reports come up regularly:

• 5 October 2026: Jembrana Police detectives swept suspected cockfighting sites in Kaliakah, Negara district. No activity was found that day, and police said sweeps would continue (Bali Tribune).
• 19 August 2025: Seririt police dismantled an arena in Unggahan village, Buleleng, after reports on social media. The site was already empty when officers arrived (Kompas.com).
• 14 June 2025: a tajen in Banjar Tabu, Songan village, Kintamani ended in a fatal stabbing. Bangli Police named five suspects, one of them the tajen organiser, charged under the gambling article (Pantau Bali, 4 July 2025).

Enforcement is uneven, and many reports mention arenas operating openly. That does not change their legal status, and the Songan case shows how quickly a tajen crowd can turn violent.

Can a foreign tourist be deported?

Yes. Law 6/2011 on Immigration, Article 75, allows immigration officers to take administrative action against foreigners reasonably suspected of endangering public security and order, or of not respecting or obeying Indonesian law. The measures include deportation and an entry ban. As of October 2026 we found no report of a foreigner deported specifically over tajen, but the legal basis exists, and in recent years Bali has regularly deported foreigners for lesser offences.

Can I take photos?

• Tabuh rah during a ceremony: ask the temple priest (pemangku) or organisers, skip the flash, stay out of the ritual area, and wear temple dress (sarong and sash). General camera etiquette at ceremonies is covered in our article can you photograph ceremonies in Bali.
• Tajen with betting: do not photograph or film. Organisers and bettors dislike cameras, and any video you post becomes evidence that you were at a gambling site.

If a driver or guide offers a "cockfight tour" to an arena, it is almost certainly betting tajen, not a ceremony. You are more likely to see tabuh rah in a respectful way when locals invite you to a temple anniversary (odalan), with no ticket and no money changing hands.