Pura Dasar Bhuwana Gelgel: The Grand Temple of Bali's Old Royal Capital

About 3 km south of Semarapura, in Gelgel village, stands a major temple that almost never makes a tourist itinerary: Pura Dasar Bhuwana. It is one of Bali's Dang Kahyangan Jagat temples, and it sits in what was once the heart of the Gelgel Kingdom — Bali's capital before power moved to Klungkung.

Traces of the Gelgel Kingdom

Local records say the temple existed before Gelgel became the capital, then was heavily restored under Dalem Ketut Ngulesir, the first king of Gelgel in the late 14th century. To this day it is the shared temple of the catur warga: Satria Dalem, Pasek, Pande and Brahmana Siwa — so worshippers come from all over Bali, not just Klungkung.

What You Will See

• Three courtyards (tri mandala) behind a red-brick split gate typical of Klungkung.
• A row of meru towers, including an eleven-tiered meru in the inner courtyard.
• A long Bale Agung pavilion and dozens of sandstone shrines.
• Near-silence on ordinary days, and huge crowds during the big piodalan around Purnama Kapat.

Pair It With the Neighbours

• Masjid Nurul Huda Gelgel, the oldest mosque in Bali, founded under the same king — centuries-old proof of tolerance, only minutes from the temple.
• Kerta Gosa in central Semarapura, the old royal court hall with Kamasan-style ceiling paintings (tickets around Rp25,000 for domestic visitors, Rp50,000 for foreigners).
• Kamasan village, the home of classical wayang painting, about 10 minutes' drive away.

Practical Info & Visiting

• Location: Gelgel village, Klungkung — View on Google Maps
• Getting there: around 40 km from Denpasar or Sanur, 1–1.5 hours by scooter or car via the Ida Bagus Mantra bypass; just 10 minutes from Semarapura. Parking is available in front of the temple.
• Hours & cost: generally open during daylight hours; no official ticket, just a voluntary donation of around Rp10,000–Rp20,000.
• Bring: a sarong (kamen) and sash — these can usually be borrowed or rented near the entrance; wear comfortable shoes.
• Etiquette: never climb on the shrines or into the sacred inner area, don't stand higher than people praying, and avoid entering during a ceremony unless the temple caretakers invite you.
• Photos & updates: search on Instagram

Klungkung rewards a slow pace. If you'd rather stay a night near Semarapura or use Sanur as your base, check the AccessiaPass hotel vouchers to keep room costs down before you go.