Turn north off the Denpasar–Amlapura road just above Manggis village and the asphalt narrows as rice fields give way to orchards. This is Selumbung — an old village in Manggis district, Karangasem regency, covering about 6.65 km² with some 3,400 residents. It has been developed as a tourism village since 2014, yet it remains far quieter than its famous neighbours.
How the Village Is Laid Out
- Six hamlets: Bukit Catu, Kaleran, Kelodan, Tengah, Kanginan and Anyar — Bukit Catu sits highest, around 500–700 m above sea level, while the village average is only 200 m.
- It borders Sibetan to the north, Ngis to the east, and Manggis to the south and west.
- Irrigation is still governed by two subak associations: Subak Selumbung and Subak Abian Lumbung Mekar.
Old Temples and the Daratan Rite
The ritual axis of the village runs through Pura Puseh and Pura Desa; higher up stands Pura Pucak Bukit Juwet Tirta Guna. Its largest ceremony, Ngusaba Desa, falls on each Purnama Sasih Kapat and opens with ngalang — every household contributes two kilograms of rice, two bunches of bananas, two coconuts and firewood. The climax is the daratan (locals also call it narat): villagers walk together towards Pura Puseh holding kris daggers aloft, and some enter trance. The village also still keeps its wayang wong theatre alive. The most recent Ngusaba Puseh cycle was recorded in early October 2025.
Yeh Labuh, the Orchards and Village Activities
- Yeh Labuh waterfall — tiered, with the Tibu Kresek pool below and Tibu Tengah above; reached by a narrow, winding, climbing footpath, so wear grippy shoes and do not go alone.
- Footpaths between hamlets crossing orchards and ridgelines; some stretches were widened by a 2,510-metre village road project in 2024.
- Activities offered by residents: melukat purification at the springs, learning mebanten (assembling offerings), and woodcarving.
Practical Info & Visiting
- Location: Selumbung village, Manggis district, Karangasem regency — View on Google Maps
- How to visit: check in first at the village office or with Pokdarwis Desa Wisata Selumbung for a local guide and route advice; the waterfall path is unsigned and slippery after rain.
- Temple etiquette: wear a kamen sarong and sash, do not climb into sacred areas or photograph ceremonies without permission, and respect local customary restrictions.
- Social media: no verified official village account yet — search on Instagram
- Hours & cost: the village is open all day, best between 07.00 and 16.00; no official ticket price has been published, so budget roughly Rp50,000–150,000 for a donation and guide fee.
- Access: about 60 km or 1.5 hours by car from Denpasar; from Candidasa roughly 20–30 minutes west, then up into the hills from Manggis.
Basing yourself on the Candidasa coast makes an early start at Selumbung far easier — browse AccessiaPass hotel vouchers for stays in Karangasem.
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