Pura Maduwe Karang: The ‘Man on a Bicycle’ Relief Everyone Misses on the Way to Lovina

Thousands of travellers drive past Kubutambahan every day without stopping — everyone is rushing to catch sunset at Lovina. Yet about 12–15 kilometres east of Singaraja, beside the main road of Kubutambahan village, stands Pura Maduwe Karang: one of North Bali's largest agricultural temples and its most expressive gallery of stone carving. The roughly 6,000-square-metre complex was begun in 1890 by families who came from the village of Bulian.

The “Man on a Bicycle” Relief and Nieuwenkamp

On the outer wall of the main shrine sits the carving that made this temple famous as far away as Europe: a European man pedalling a bicycle, its wheels carved like flower petals. The figure is believed to be W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp, the Dutch painter and ethnographer who toured Bali by bicycle in 1904. What few visitors know: the relief is not part of the original temple. It appeared during the restoration after the 1917 earthquake badly damaged the temple, carved by elders of Kubutambahan.

Thirty-Four Ramayana Statues on the Front Terrace

Stop in the outer courtyard (jaba) before passing through the split gate. This is the part rushed visitors almost always miss:

• 34 stone statues arranged in three rows across the front courtyard
• The scene at its heart: Kumbhakarna battling Sugriwa's monkey army from the Ramayana
• North Bali's pepatraan style — dense floral scrollwork and theatrical facial expressions
• Three temple zones: jaba, jaba tengah and jeroan

A Dry-Field Subak Temple, Not Just a Photo Backdrop

Maduwe Karang roughly means “the one who owns the land”. This is a subak abian temple — a shrine for dry farmland such as coconut, coffee and fruit groves rather than irrigated rice. It is still in active use, so your visit may coincide with a ceremony. Come in the morning: the carvings read far better in low light.

Practical Info & Booking

• Location: Kubutambahan village, Buleleng, North Bali — View on Google Maps
• Hours & entry: open daily around 08:00–17:00 WITA; no official ticket, only a voluntary donation towards temple upkeep.
• Getting there: about 20 minutes' drive from Singaraja, 40–50 minutes from Lovina; right on the north coast road, easy to combine with Pura Beji Sangsit and Pura Dalem Jagaraga.
• Dress code: a kamen (sarong) and sash are required. Rental cloth is usually available at the entrance for a small donation — carry small cash.
• Social media: no confirmed official account — search on Instagram for recent visitor photos.

Kubutambahan is best enjoyed unhurried — sleep on the island's north side rather than day-tripping from Ubud. If you are planning a night in Lovina or Singaraja, check AccessiaPass hotel vouchers for the Buleleng area first.