Margarana National Monument, Tabanan: A 17-Metre Tower and 1,372 Heroes’ Graves

About 25 km northwest of Denpasar, in Marga village, Tabanan, stands a roughly 9-hectare complex that is almost always empty: Monumen Nasional Taman Pujaan Bangsa (TPB) Margarana. This is where Colonel I Gusti Ngurah Rai and his Ciung Wanara troops fought to the last man against Dutch NICA forces on 20 November 1946.

A 17-Metre Tower and the Letter That Refused to Negotiate

• Candi Pahlawan Margarana rises 17 metres, pentagonal in plan, with 8 tiers and 4 flights of steps — the code 17-8-45.
• Carved into it is Ngurah Rai’s reply to Overste Termeulen: no negotiation, the answer would be puputan — a fight to the finish.
• Around it stand the Panca Bakti statue and a ceremonial court with two pavilions.

Taman Bahagia: Around 1,372 Graves

• Rows of small stone shrines, about 1,372 of them, represent the fighters who fell against NICA across Bali.
• They include dozens of ALARI members, several former Japanese soldiers who sided with the young Republic, and one unknown hero.
• The grounds follow the Tri Mandala layout — dress modestly and keep your voice down.

Museum, Opening Hours and Best Time

• The Gedung Sejarah holds photographs of the fighters, keris and swords, spears, clothing and independence-war weapons.
• Open daily around 08.00–17.00 WITA; the museum building usually 09.00–16.00, so arrive before 15.00.
• Mornings are best; every 20 November a solemn Puputan Margarana commemoration is held. Bring water and a hat — the court is unshaded.

It sits right on the Denpasar–Bedugul road, so it pairs easily with Alas Kedaton or Jatiluwih; a night in Tabanan or Ubud makes the route far calmer, and an AccessiaPass hotel voucher can trim what that night costs.

Practical Info & Booking

• Location: Jl. Wisnu Marga, Banjar Kelaci, Marga Dauh Puri, Marga District, Tabanan — View on Google Maps
• Opening hours: daily around 08.00–17.00 WITA; the museum building roughly 09.00–16.00.
• Tickets: free — only voluntary donation boxes at the gate and in the museum; bring small notes for the box and parking.
• Getting in: just turn up, no booking; groups should contact the management at the guard post, and a local guide is usually available on site.
• Social: search on Instagram