Cross the Syarif Tua bridge in the town of Negara and Bali changes character within seconds: the call to prayer replaces the gamelan, and wooden houses on stilts line the riverbank. This is Kampung Loloan — Loloan Timur (Jembrana district) and Loloan Barat (Negara district) — a Bugis-Malay settlement on the Ijo Gading River that has stood for more than three centuries.
Bugis Sailors and Malay Scholars
- The first wave: around 1669, Bugis-Makassar sailors led by Daeng Nakhoda entered the mouth of the Ijo Gading after Fort Somba Opu fell. Jembrana’s ruler, I Gusti Arya Pancoran, let them open the trading post of Bandar Pancoran.
- The second wave: Malay scholars followed. Buyut Lebai (Dawan Sirajuddin) from Sarawak — born 1619, died 1744 — lies buried on Jalan Gunung Agung in Loloan Timur.
- Syarif Tua: Syarif Abdullah bin Yahya Al-Qadri built the Fatimah fort in 1804 and died in 1858; his name now belongs to the bridge joining the two halves of the village.
Baitul Qadim Mosque and the Stilt Houses
- Masjid Agung Baitul Qadim: founded in 1679 by the Bugis scholar Haji Yassin on land granted by I Gusti Ngurah Pancoran. The oldest mosque in Jembrana regency keeps a handwritten Quran manuscript, an old inscription and an antique bedug drum; the name “Baitul Qadim” (Old House) has been in use since 14 November 1974.
- Stilt houses: timber built without nails on a knock-down system, some 100 to 300 years old. A 2024 count found only about 67 left, listed as suspected cultural heritage since 2022. They are lived-in homes, not a museum — ask permission before photographing or stepping inside.
Language, Arts and Traditions
- Base Loloan: a Malay dialect mixed with Balinese and Bugis words, still spoken daily although speakers are dwindling.
- Performing arts: burdah, hadrah, zapin, gambus, rodat, marawis and pencak silat.
- Ngejot: the tradition of Muslim and Hindu neighbours exchanging food before each other’s major holidays.
- Festival Budaya Loloan “Jaman Lame”: staged by the Jembrana regency government in Loloan Timur; the sixth edition ran 17–19 October 2025.
Practical Information & Booking
- Location: View on Google Maps
- Getting there: about 90 km from Denpasar (2.5–3 hours) or 25 km from Gilimanuk harbour (roughly 40 minutes).
- Hours & cost: open daily and free; visit the mosque outside prayer times and avoid Friday prayers unless you are joining the congregation.
- Booking: no ticket — simply turn up; for historical background, ask permission and help from the mosque caretakers or the local village office.
- Etiquette: dress modestly, remove your shoes at the mosque, speak softly near the graves, and do not bring alcohol.
- Social media: search on Instagram
Loloan works best as a day stop coming from Gilimanuk or Medewi, and you can lock in a West Bali room rate in advance with an AccessiaPass hotel voucher.
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